Board damage is an occupational hazard for windsurfers – is there anyone out there who has been windsurfing for a few years that has not inflicted damage on a board? Then what? Do you send your board to a professional repairer and pay good money, or do you get some Ding Stick and fix it up yourself?

For years, I tried repairing boards by making it up as I went along. I tried everything from Araldite, through Ding Stick to fibreglass. Despite my best efforts, and some cosmetic success, none of the repairs stood the test of time so I decided to start doing them properly. I did as much research as possible, talking to people who had more experience than me, reading the repair articles published in Boards magazine and checking out the web. Having got used to the idea that every conceivable topic is covered thoroughly somewhere on the web, I was amazed to find that there is very little advice on this topic, apart from some offered by Starboard and Blue Chip, neither of which have any photos to guide you.

As a result, we now offer the Team AirBorn guide to board repair, intended for use by anyone who is reasonably handy at DIY. It focuses on the most practical techniques for amateur repairers, on the problems that professionals don’t face, what products to use and where to buy them. There is no commercial push to this site. We aren’t trying to sell you products, merely offer the most practical advice. You are entitled to disagree and suggest better methods and contribute to improvements in the site. Let us know! There is a feedback form on the Buying materials page.

How difficult is board repair? Dings are pretty straightforward, deck repairs aren’t a problem but a full nose job, where the board has split through from deck to underside is a good deal more difficult. It’s all within the powers of the average DIYer but it takes practice to achieve an invisible result so start with a board that’s seen some service, not a brand new one. Getting the repair to look right on a board with elaborate graphics is likely to be the hardest part.

The techniques described DO work. None of the repairs I have done in the last two years have failed. I have personally tested one of the repairs featured here by smacking it exceptionally hard with my chin on the exit of a failed duck gybe. Once I had rinsed off enough blood to see the deck, I was delighted to find the repair in perfect order (whereas my chin still bears a scar). I have no doubt that if I had hit the board elsewhere I would have gone through the deck. This method of testing repairs is not recommended…

Planning and starting the repair:

- Ding Stick and similar products are excellent for quick and effective temporary repairs but don’t even think about using them for permanent repairs where there is any structural damage. The repair will fail, you will be disappointed and your board will fill up with water.

- Don’t even think about using polyester resin, either. This is sold in Halfords and other places as ‘fibreglass resin’ but is the kiss of death for your board. Not only does go off too quickly and has poor adhesion, but it can also dissolve the core of your board in seconds, leaving you staring into the abyss. You only use it once.

- You must rinse off the damaged area with fresh water and get it really dry. In the summer, leave the board in a hot car for as long as possible. In the winter, balance it above a radiator for a couple of days. This is particularly important if you have been sailing around with the damage because quite a bit of water will have soaked in.

- Work in a warm place. This is not an issue for professionals with workshops but it’s really important for DIYers working outdoors or in a cold garage. Below about 15 degrees epoxy takes an inconveniently long time go off and it’s really hard to get a decent result with aerosol paint: It will run, sag and collect condensation. However, you can do the entire repair indoors (subject to domestic negotiations!) apart from spray painting as long as you don’t use power tools.

- Set the board up so that you can work on it. A couple of trestles are ideal but large cardboard boxes work OK. Make sure the board won’t get damaged by whatever is supporting it. If you are working on the board rail, find a way of supporting the board on its edge.

- Be sensible about your protection. Use a disposable breathing mask if power sanding or spray painting. Wear protective glasses or sunnies when digging out damage with a knife: I’ve had a couple of blades break and try to embed themselves in my eyeball. Epoxy is comprised of potentially harmful chemicals.

Team AirBorn is sponsored by:

Windsurfers World : One of Britain's best windsurfing shops. Tushingham top retailer for 2005.

O'Shea : High end, top quality surfwear

Pentax: Digital camera equipment

Copyright 2006 Bob Shillito. The guide is bought to you by Bob Shillito and is intended for personal use. If you mess up yourself or your board trying to follow this advice, please don't blame me. You may print it out but you may not publish it any form without permission.